Buyer's brief
How to read a 911 listing like someone who has bought one before
A short, opinionated guide to the four checks that catch most problems: the listing itself, the option sheet, the conversation before an inspection, and the paperwork.
Evaluating a listing
- Count the photos. A serious seller shows undersides, wheel faces, seat bolsters, engine bay and the door jamb sticker.
- Read what is missing. No service records mentioned, no VIN, and no cold-start video are all signals worth a direct question.
- Check the mileage against the wear. Pedal rubbers, steering wheel and driver's bolster should agree with the odometer.
- Note how long it has been listed. A car sitting for months usually has a reason, often price, sometimes history.
- Compare against three similar cars before forming a price opinion, matching generation, gearbox and mileage band.
Decoding the option sheet
- Ask for a photo of the factory option sticker, usually in the front boot or service book.
- Separate options that change how the car drives (gearbox, LSD, suspension, exhaust) from cosmetic ones.
- Rare does not always mean desirable: ceramic brakes and full buckets narrow the buyer pool as often as they widen it.
- Verify anything you are paying a premium for. A claimed Paint To Sample colour should appear on the build sheet.
- Match the options against your own must-have list before you fall for the photos.
Questions before an inspection
- Why are you selling, and how long have you owned it?
- Has any panel been repainted or replaced, and can I see paint depth readings?
- When was the last major service, and which specialist carried it out?
- Are there any warning lights, stored fault codes or known oil leaks?
- Will you support a prepurchase inspection at an independent specialist of my choosing?
- Are both keys, the tool kit, the compressor and the original books present?
Verifying the documentation
- Match the VIN on the title, the windscreen plate and the door jamb sticker.
- Read the stamps and the invoices together. Stamps without invoices tell you very little.
- Look for continuity: gaps of several years usually mean the car sat, which brings its own costs.
- Confirm any outstanding finance or lien before money moves.
- Keep every document you receive in your own file; you will want it when you sell.
Put it to work
Score the cars you are serious about against your own criteria, then compare the finalists side by side.
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